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Forbes and Burton
[Thu 08/12/2011 02:25:00]
Dinner at Forbes and Burton reminds me of a dinner party at my best friends’ slightly left, but full-of-love grandma’s esteemed Toorak estate. An experience where a fixed yet non-pretentious appreciation for the finer things leaves you brimming with colossal combinations of premium eats, tipples from paths less tread and a surprise or two, writes Lauren King.
Forbes and Burton
Stepping into Forbes and Burton, the warmth of satisfaction immediately pushes aside the daily grind in preparation for a unique sensory experience – unique thanks to a hearty mix of cultures harmonised in every dish, the wholesome ethic and high culinary IQ of the staff, and a non invasive collection of local art work for sale.
Tucked a stones throw behind the brash and boisterous Oxford Street, some may know Forbes and Burton for the big breakfast tastes and serious barista skills appeasing locals’ morning cravings for the past six years. Serving dinner for just eight months, the fancily friendly dining spot is quickly earning an equally impressive rep for meals served after 6pm, a welcome response largely due to chef Paul Pereira and his interpretation of Modern Australian cuisine.
Born to an Indian mother and Portuguese father in Africa, some may say Paul entered the world destined to experiment with the possibilities of cross culturalism. Add to this tertiary studies in bio-chemistry and an innate passion for the potential of fresh ingredients, and you have a divine approach to food that balances a perfect mix of science and intuition; sweet and sour.
The Fresh Shucked Rock Oyster dressed in tamarind, ginger, crispy eschallots, salmon roe and candied jalapeno chillies provides a textural journey unlike most, while fellow entree; Pickled Beetroot with salted walnuts, orange jelly, goats curd and sorbet challenges common concepts of traditional tastes. The Oven Roasted Boneless Quail with saltimbocca, chicken liver parfait, dates and hazelnuts arrives like a small scale model of a contemporary city – attention to detail carried from the kitchen to front of house in a philosophy that strives to provide impeccability minus intimidation.
“Paul is inspired to create dishes that are not replicable in the home kitchen – that ensure you’ve given your tastebuds a ‘night out.’ He is careful to include sweet, sour and spicy flavours along with contrasting temperatures and textures in each mouthful,” explains Forbes and Burton manager, Alice Pamment.
For mains, the Slow Cooked & Roast Fed Free Range Corn Fed ‘Marget’ Duck with herbal tisane, corn, shitake mushrooms, lilly buds and black moss is the epitome of melt-in-your mouth and the Pan Roasted Hiramasa Kingfish with globe artichoke, piquillo pepper, patatas bravas and chorizo crumbs is hard to bypass.
You may, however, be tempted by one of Forbes and Burton’s specials – the limited menu shakes things up every few days with the likes of Hand Selected Pastrol Lamb (Murraylands Farm, SA) Rump, Oven Baked to Med rare, served with smoked turnip puree, sweet breads, white asparagus and fermented black garlic making a common appearance.
“Paul’s produce is intricately sourced to provide specialties from providores and producers. He hopes to push boundaries with his dishes – if the customers will let him – without being too fancy or molecular,” says Alice. And let him I advise.
A similar concept applies to the Forbes and Burton wine list, hand selected by Alice herself.
“The list is made up of predominantly Australian and French wine with a small selection from Argentina, Italy and NZ - soon we will broaden our imports,” says Alice
For our table, Alice recommended the 2009 Massena ‘The Moonlight Run’ GSCM Barossa - a medium bodied, desirable length with sour red fruits raspberry and cherry in what was a high acidity pleasure to the palette.
Occupying a quintessential ‘back-streets of Surry Hills’ corner that offers a cosy glimpse of Sydney’s CBD, Forbes and Burton offers a home-style experience with inner-city flavours – the kind of genuine warmth and welcomeness hard to find in the city of Sydney, particularly where food of this calibre is served.
www.forbesandburton.com.au
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