The AW 14 collection from Australian label Kookai, shown on Thursday March 13th 2014, revealed a more modern aesthetic for the brand, with a subdued colour palette and New York inspired prints, writes Ruth Cooper.

Kookai AW 14_Hair by L'Oreal Professionnel_Nicole Trunfio

L’Oréal Professionnel Co-Directors Jamie Furlan (Xiang QV, VIC) and Kieran Harris (Heading Out Hair & Beauty, VIC) created two relaxed hair looks – a textured quiff and a soft ponytail – that perfectly contrasted the sharp collection.

“The hair for this show really plays on the Kookai aesthetic,” said Jamie, who styled the textured quiff. “The hair is really organic and sort of contrasts the clean lines of the collection. It’s definitely more of a relaxed feel than the traditional glamour hair looks. But natural hair is a trend we’ve been seeing a lot of lately. It’s very modern and textured.”

Kookai AW 14_Hair by L'Oreal Professionnel

The soft ponytail was created by Kieran, who was inspired by the modern Kookai woman — “a woman who is strong, is taking charge and demands attention,” he says. “The style is a really low, soft ponytail and the inspiration behind it is a combination between the fun, spirited party girl that the Kookai girl is who is now becoming the boss.”

GET THE LOOK

Look 1: Textured Quiff
1. Double mousse hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Full Volume from roots to ends and blow dry in. Use L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Volume Lift for the second application.
2. Next, take a triangle section of hair from ear to ear, back to the crown. Pin and twist on top of head.
3. Blow dry the remaining lengths down and smooth. Use a straightening iron to create flicks on the ends. TIP: Pin the sides of the hair back and tight to the head using a bobby pin and business card to keep hair smooth.
4. Un-pin the top section and backcomb, sectioning hair horizontally until you reach the front.
5. Use fingers to rake hair back roughly from the face. Sprinkle L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Super Dust onto fingers and rake hair away from the face, lifting slightly to create volume.
6. Finish with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Infinium Lumière hairspray for hold and shine.

Look 2: Soft Ponytail
1. Prepare hair using L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Volume Lift, spraying at the roots to ends for texture. Blow dry the hair smooth but not completely straight.
2. Section the hair ear to ear. Brush the lower section into a ponytail at the nape, smoothing the side lengths over the ears.
3. Create a deep centre part. Pull the remaining lengths and join with the lower ponytail.
4. Take a very fine section of hair, saturate with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Infinium Lumière and then wrap around to conceal the hair tie. The hairspray will hold it in place.
5. Tuck the hair over the ears. Lightly sprinkle L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Super Dust on the top lengths and gently loosen with fingers for a more natural finish.
6. Lastly, use a straightening iron to create a soft kink in the ponytail.

The Napoleon Perdis team took charge of the makeup looks for the Kookai show, creating a natural look with copper-toned eyes, orange sherbet cheeks and a nude lip.

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GET THE LOOK

Step 1: Skin
1. Prep skin with Napoleon Complex Skin Renewal Serum and apply Auto Pilot Lip Service to lips.
2. Apply Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Skin Primer over face.
3. Add a light application of Sheer Genius Liquid Foundation to the feature focus area to create a flawless finish.
4. Apply Pro Palette Concealer to eye area and any areas of concern. Set with a light dusting of Camera Finish Powder Foundation.

Step 2: Eyes
1. Curl lashes and apply a coat of Mesmer-Eyes Mascara.
2. Scribble Eye Pencil Brown Sugar onto the lid and blend to create an eye base.
3. Sweep Camera Finish Powder Foundation N5Topaz onto mobile lid and blend past socket.
4. Tap Loose Eye Dust Copper Element onto centre of lid.
5. Lightly contour and add warmth to eye socket using Color Disc Tawny Temptress. Ensure edges are blended seamlessly.
6. Add subtle highlight to brow bone with Color Disc Skinny Dip.
7. Line and define top lash line using Matte Eye Ink.
8. Line water line using Eye Pencil White On.
9. Line lower lash using China Doll Gel Eyeliner Tao.
10. Smoke lower lash line using Color Disc Tawny Temptress from inner to outer corners of eye.
11. Add a small amount of Camera Finish Powder Foundation N5 Topaz to outer half of lower lash line.
12. Tap a small amount of Loose Eye Dust Honey Child onto inner corner of the eye to add a pop of shimmer.

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Step 3: Cheeks
1. Lightly contour and frame face with Camera Finish Powder Foundation N4 Mahogany underneath cheekbones, forehead and onto temples.
2. Tap a small amount of Color Disc Orange Sherbet onto apples of cheek and blend upwards. Build intensity until desired result is achieved.
3. Highlight top of cheekbones, cupids bow and along centre bridge of nose with a touch of Color Disc Freshwater Pearl.

Step 4: Lips
1. Create a perfect nude lip using DéVine Goddess Lipstick Demeter.
2. Layer lips with Luminous Lip Veil Caramel Kiss for subtle shine.

Step 5: Finishing Touches
1. Groom and define brows with a touch of Eyebrow Pale Rider. Add a second coat of Mesmer-Eyes Mascara. For extra length, volume and curl dress the eye with Luxe Mink Lashes.

For more information about L’Oréal Professionnel visit www.lorealprofessionnel.com.au or call 1300 651 141.

For more information about Napoleon Perdis visit www.napoleonperdis.com.