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MBFWA: Goldwell for Aurelio Costarella SS14/15

Hair looks that embodied masculinity blurred with femininity we created perfectly by Goldwell for Aurelio Costarella’s 1920s and 30s Parisienne silhouettes for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.

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Goldwell hair director Lee Preston took the helm backstage for Aurelio’s collection playing with volume, backcombing, wefts and colour to add another dimension to the vibrant and multi textured garments.

“We wanted a look that was masculine, but still quite feminine. We’ve split the hair down the middle at the top and used two rolls of padding under the hair, then backcombed the front and taken it over the top to sit through the middle, and then we’ve slicked the sides. Then we’ve taken the back into a really low ponytail so the hair kicks out of the way of the neckline. We’ve also used a really strong coloured weft because the Aurelio Costarella collection features a lot of colour.”

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“We’ve coloured the wefts with Goldwell Illumina Colour and created four sets of colours for the wefts which correlate to the colours within Aurelio’s collection. We want the colour to really pop on the catwalk. Our hero product was the Hot form Style Sign which is a lovely blowdry lotion which we used to create a directional blowdry to start with. It was important for us to prep the hair to get a great backcomb and a polished finish.”

Goldwell’s Liam Baxter was charged with the task of creating the pops of colour for the wefts, “We’ve gone with really bright colours this year. Aurelio was fantastic with showing us swatches and different fabrics that he’s been working with for this collection, so we we’re able to team up, which provided the inspiration behind the colours for the wefts,” he explained.

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James Molloy for M.A.C directed the makeup for the show, which featured a demure 1930s look with subtle glossy eyes and wine-stained lips.

“The inspiration behind the makeup look for the show was 1930s parisienne, melancholic beauty,” explained James.

“There are two looks for the show – the main look features a very rounded, pewtered glossy eye, and lots of lashes top and bottom which alludes to Betty Davis. On the lips we used Lip Mix in burgundy and crimson and given them a red wine stain. For the second look, I was inspired by a 1930s illustration of beauty, so if you take the key elements of working with lines – so we’ve got a very rounded eyebrow and we’ve laced the models’ faces with Swarovzki crystal so create a shimmering effect which alludes to the 30s,” he explained.

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“One of the key products I’ve used is the Tailor Grade Paint Pot. Trends this season are stepping away from anything too warm, so this is beautiful because it’s a creamy, lilac, mushroom tone which we’ve worked around the models’ eyes.”

1. Blow dry all hair straight using StyleSign Hot Form spray, working all hair down into the nape of the neck.

2. Once the hair has been prepared then take a square section on the top of the hair, using the eyebrows through to the back of the crown as a guide.

3. Lightly back comb the hair and separate a small half inch section that runs along the scalp line at the front.

4. Split the back section of hair into two, then roll the hair inwards to create two coils. Pin to secure and spray with StyleSign Hair Lacquer Regular Hold.

5. Using the separated portion of hair at the front, back comb into a quiff and smooth over the top of the rolls to create a square-looking quiff on top of the hair.

6. Moving on to the back of the hair, where the crown finishes from the back combing, pull the sides of the hair and slick them back using StyleSign Satin Guard, creating a defined edge to the side of the hair. Secure with bobby pins.

7. Then working with the multi-coloured wefts, pin the pieces to the sides of the hair and join at the back of the crown, securing with double sided tape.

8. Gather the rest of the hair at the back of the head and create a soft pony tail at the nape of the neck.

9. To create a super smooth and clean finish, run DualSenses 6 Effects Serum through the hair.

10. Finally, guide the hair wefts straight down the back, over the pony tail to give a straight finish.

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